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Dr Ian Dunbar's UK tour 2024

Click below for full information on...

​"Barking Up the Right Tree: Results-Based Dog Training"

MANCHESTER, HERTFORDSHIRE, KENT, SOUTHAMTON, & BRISTOL

 

"Peace in the Pack"

STONELEIGH - near COVENTRY

"Resolving Dog-Dog Reactivity"

STONELEIGH - near COVENTRY

Resolving Dog-Dog Reactivity by Non-Aversive Means

This seminar describes how to rapidly resolve dog-dog reactivity for dogs that have been involved in numerous full-body scraps and fights but have never injured another dog. In a nutshell, the approach comprises: 1. Intensive classical conditioning and 2. Teaching your dog how to act around other dogs, rather than getting on their case whenever they react in a manner that upsets you.

It is extremely difficult to resolve dog-dog reactivity during daily activities, especially during walks, because the environment is everchanging and so, your dog doesn't know whether to associate your classical conditioning with the appearance of another dog, a distant squirrel, or a passing car. You must stand still when classically conditioning.

Resolution requires a pre-training program to teach your dog how to act when anxious and worked-up, because your dog's anxiety and reactivity is the number one reason why other dogs threaten yours. It takes two to tango, or in this case four: your dog, the other dog, the other owner, and you. All it takes is for one of the four to react, and all four will erupt, causing the original trigger-dog or person to react more forcefully, thus, creating a vicious circle.

Learning how to change your dog's behaviour and your behaviour radically changes the perceptions and feelings and hence, behaviour of other dogs and owners towards your dog. The most effective means is to teach your dog to Come-Sit-Stay-Watch and Shush reliably on cue, i.e., to be quiet, still, and not eye-ball the other dog, whereupon, you'll find other dogs threaten your dog less and classical conditioning can move along at a fast clip during troubleshooting sessions that repeatedly expose your dog to the same dog over and over. Rather than trying to control your dog during every unexpected encounter with an unfamiliar dog, first practice with a single dog (and informed owner) until you have success. And then repeat with another half-dozen dogs before practicing the routine on walks with unfamiliar dogs.

Resolution will take a long-time if you're relying on the (same-old-same-old) food rewards. Behaviour is changing several times a second and so, your feedback should reflect these changes. You'll need to use much more powerful rewards plus lots and lots of praise, reassurance, and guidance, i.e., a running commentary of ongoing verbal feedback that is binary, fluctuating (to reflect differential quality of behaviour), representative and most important, instructive.

A couple of months ago I had a 70-year-old client, who took all this on board, put it to practice, and accomplished his goals in a single session. Of course, he was an exceptional client, but all the same, he went from reactive-dog to attentive-calmly-walking-dog in one session.

 

You'll learn:

How to objectively assess the actual danger of your dog's reactivity to determine a realistic prognosis.

Some surprisingly easy, yet highly effective exercises to proof your dog to Come-Sit-Stay-Watch  and Shush when under duress — first with NO dogs present, then around controlled or known dogs (and informed owners), and eventually on a walk when unexpectedly encountering unfamiliar dogs.

Several repeated-exposure exercises to fast-track classical conditioning with familiar dogs, so they are more likely to work during unexpected encounters with unfamiliar dogs.

How to classically and operantly condition your dog simultaneously, so your praise and reassurance do not unintentionally reinforce your dog's reactivity.

A variety of enjoyable confidence-building techniques to manage your stress and anxiety,

including, The Seven Dwarfs and Bill Campbell's inimitable Jolly Routine.

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